This was an impulse purchase – I am lucky to have a nearby hobby shop that is finished with GW, and as such is getting rid of a lot of their stock cheaply (It does mean that my nearest GW/Miniature shop is approx. 50 miles away now, though!) – Anyway, I’ve picked up some of their Fantasy and 40K clobber at a steal, and fully intend to showcase here later! Unfortunately, they are older models, so there will be nothing revelatory or “I was the first ever to cover this model” stuff, in fairness, this was never what the site was about – but I thought it’d be fun to run through some of these pieces.
This was my first peice of terrain for 40K – Honoured Imperium. I liked the statue immediately – was easy to assemble and looked well when it overshadows the smaller miniatures. I’d imagine that as a piece of gaming terrain it is pretty useless though.
The stages for this one were simple. I toyed around with the concept of a stone-effect statue, but decided that my Fantasy terrain was replete with Fortress-Styles and bare hills, so thought I would try to replicate something that I did with Dreadstone Blight (Will post pics later) a year ago. The plaques and wall-art of Dreadstone Blight I picked out in a tarnished brass effect. I have always liked the verdigris on the Skaven metals, and this was a logical inclusion to any colour scheme where bright metal was exposed to external atmosphere. I thought this would be a nice – if predictable and speedy way to kick out this piece in jig time.
So – the stages:
Primed with Chaos Black. Don’t use black as a prime coat often, but for 40K, as I start painting them, it seems more appropriate for the inkier tones than Fantasy, LOTR or Dreadfleet.
The Pedastal base was my go-to formula for sontework – Chardon Granite with a medium-heavy drybrush of Dheneb Stone. Some might want to add Rotting Flesh in a mix with the Dheneb Stone (1:1ish), but I like the even coat that foundations like Dheneb Stone give cut surfaces. If it were rocks, I’d approach it differently.
The basecoat was Tin Bitz and Vermin Brown mixed to about 2:1. I hate when bases are metals, so always try to include a neater colour.
I added some liquid Green Stuff to the head and leg seams to reduce the obvious split, but then had a ‘good’ idea to use it sparingly to smudge up one side of the model to account for atmospheric wear. I decided to go against making battle-damage effects to the piece, as one type of degradation would suffice. What have I learned? Liquid Green Stuff has limited applications, and is best suited to hairline gaps – I really had to plough on the stuff to make a difference in the cloak piece and leg seams, and even then it may not have been worth the errand. You be the judge!
Wetbrushed with Shining Gold. Heavy enough dose to cover all of the basecoat except the interior shade pieces.
Drybrushed sparingly with Burnished Gold. This is a metallic that I hate more than the rest, and is only useful for putting on top of Singing Gold. Even then, I would shake it to the last the get the correct pigment evenly dispersed as I find it really wants to settle quite fast. I used this coat on flats and top showing parts of the model mainly, and the old maxim that less is more rang true,
This penultimate step was the verdigris. I used Hawk Turquoise as a cheat, really watered down. The first time I tried this, I was mixing all kinds of dwarf bronze and scally green to get a proper copper-sulphately looking mixture, but really Hawk Turquoise will fit the bill and is far less messy! I applied it to logical weathered areas, and again, sparingly. The instinct is to layer it on, but isolated drybrush strokes do the job better.
Finally, a slight highlight to the odd sharp edge of Chainmail or something like Mythril Silver if desired finish off the piece well.
The finish has to be touched up in spots – I overdabbed the Burnished Gold over the shield, and the banner on the shield needs to be inked with a name, but as I’m new to 40K, I don’t know who it should or might be yet! Overall though, I was pleased enough with the final draft. It was a pretty easy piece to do up quickly, but I enjoyed the extended break from the Dreadfleet! I may yet go longer! I fit this one in amidst models from Dark Reach boxset and it was a welcome break during that run – I have the other two pieces of terrain that came with the Honoured Imperium to complete yet, and they will be similarly used as link-breaks.
The model colour scheme may not be everyone’s cup of joe, but I think that the effect is strikingly different from game models while being suitable for the 40k universe. I’d be interested to know what anyone else might think or suggest otherwise!
Now this one was positively straightforward, but definitely my least favourite piece so far. In my on-going effort to avoid revisiting the Swordfysh or finish touching up other models, I figured why not do this one! I thought I could paint it as a solid unit, but the area behind the pyramid is precarious without pulling the deck out first, and the area is open and visible enough that you do need to get some level of detail in there.
Ok, so to the stages –
Primed with Skull White
Water base is as GW guidelines – exception was of course for the floating bones. I based them in Bleached Bone before adding Asurman Blue wash to pick out the detail between the ribs etc. I then drybrushed with another layer of Bleached Bone when thoroughly dry to take the blue off the bones. I was pretty happy with the result, but it wasn’t rocket science so there was no victory laps of the room (The what? you say, but trust me, it did happen later with the one thing I found…trying in this model!)
Ok – the Hull was Calthan Brown based before adding some Gravveyard Earth wetbrush. When dry, I added some Gryphonne Sepia Wash followed by a final and subtle Dheneb Stone drybrush to pick out the wickerwork effect. If feeling the laze on this one, just check on what needs detail as the oars obscure some of this section.
The Hull proper was simple Chaos Black based, followed by either 2 layers of Shining Gold or a layer of Tin Bitz or even Dwarf Bronze followed by the Shining Gold on the raised detail and sculpt. Took my time with this, but worked out well. I even used the same paints on the hull bands towards the front of the ship. I like this colour scheme as the gold on black is pretty striking and works well for the theme of Tomb Kings.
The statue guys I coated in Chaos Black before giving a very light drybrush with Hawk Turquoise, then going over with a highlight with Shining Gold on the hoods. The Staffs I decided could do with something different, so the heads were Burnished Gold with some Shining Gold Highlight, with Necron Abyss on the handles.
The stone held in scorpion style over the ship I based in Dark Angels Green, highlighted in Snot Green and edged with Scorpion Green. There was room for light sourcing, and I may return to attempt this, but I ran through this one pretty fast and didn’t stop to try it just yet. The only easy thing about light sourcing that I find is that it can be done at a later time without too much touch-up.
The deck was based in more Calthan brown and washed in Devlan Mud to keep it simple. The deck catapults were dressed in Tin Bitz with some Boltgun Metal highlighting. The Pyramid was pretty basic too – just a few layers of Shining Gold with some minimal Mythril Silver highlighting in the edges and sculpt. The problem I find with all gold metalics is that they always require multiple applications to get the “shine” effect, so knowing this the first layer is always light so that the subsequent layer(s) don’t blot out details.
Ok – on to the most hated part of this bad boy – the triangle strips on the hull. This was a test to be sure – get yourself some decent and tiny detail brush. GW don’t do a small enough brush, so I go for a Windsor and Newton size 0000, and I still think it is too big! Sometimes I blame my tools but sometimes I blame myself! This time, it was a toss up, but went with a yellow and blue split originally. Immediately regretted this, as no yellow was distinct enough from the gold – I don’t think that brown would work either, and there was enough purple in the fleets already that I just went with the GW recommendation – red and blue. This was slow progress, with a LOT of touching up, thinking I’m done and then finding another strip yet to do! When I was finally done with this part, I did one of thiose shoulder-stretches that painting too long requires before a small dance with the dog (who wasn’t as into the celebration as I was, but was game enough not to complain)
Finally, I assembled the model fully before painting the final parts – the oars were Bestial Brown and Devlan Mud wash., not forgetting the pieces on the base. The area above the oars I covered in Shadow Grey. The reason for doing this part last was because of the assembly of the model proper scrapes the paint from these sections if done beforehand.
There, another one down, but I have just managed to get my hands on a half-price copy of Assault on Black Reach (my first 40K modela ever – never been too interested in the 40K universe, but painting is painting and new models are always more attractive than sets half done!) – the temptation to attempt something new is pretty powerful, but I’ll try to stay the course long enough to get something Dreadfleet done next week!