Painty Lazy Susan and my second ever Warhammer game

Ok – this last week I’ve been working on a couple of things – first and foremost, and in honour of the new Citadel paint range, I wanted to future-proof my painting area while tidying it up a nooch.  I’ve long been trying to find a better way to display my paints, which are largely the citadel range, and my trusty ole toolbox had pretty much run its course as a hold all when I discovered the renaming and new paints about to flood the market.  I decided it was time to actually put something worthwhile together, and came to the conclusion that a carousel would be the best way to store and access by type.

To that end, I knocked together this lazy susan idea in MDF.  I’m a teacher, so the woodwork room always has some scrap timber lying about, and this wasn’t a major project, more an idea with little time required to complete in a few lunch breaks.  It was never meant for aesthetic appeal, and really only as an experiment to see if it did work, but I’m happy to report I’m mighty happy with it as of now!  I won’t patronise readers by going through dimensions and specs, as I’m sure anyone worth their salt could easily improve on this rudimentary design, but here’s a few pics to show the process in simple format.

The first step was marking out, then drilling the width of the average Citadel container.  I then made a rough cut with the bandsaw to make it round, before sanding to get a more rounded shape.  I have no problem admiting that it is not perfectly round, but close enough that a man on a galloping horse couldn’t see the difference.

The base I’ve shaped differently, as I intend to make a small area to hold a waterpot, brush stand and maybe a tissue/paper towel holder on one end.  That will have to wait til later, as I was getting impatient to post something this week, and really this has been the sum of my week’s effort on the hobby.  The method for turning the lazy susan was not my inspiration.  I got this from YouTube, and I wish I could remember the DIY Gamer/Painter to give him credit – it is a small channel cut into the base with the ring bearing from a microwave set into the groove.  Another channel is dug into the base of the first shelf and it turns perfectly.

The struts/supports for the unit I just made at rough height so that my hand could reach to the back paints, and set them in varying directions to better hold the weight and integrity of the overall unit.

And here is the finished product – not pretty, but perfect function over form – suits me to the ground, but I know that it can be made better.  I’ve included enough holding for about 150 pots, but really I can’t see ever getting that many paints at once, so hopefully it is future-proofed for a little bit!

I also had my second game of Warhammer this week-different opponent/teacher and very different army (it was my ramshackle Orcs and Gobbos vs. Ogres).  I was taught a lesson in more ways than one.

As a beginner, I fully expected an easy intro, kind of like the first game; but this was a true baptism by fire!  We had agreed to focus on the magic phase of this game before play, as it was a part I had difficulty in realising in the first one.  I had therefore loaded up on the shiny stuff and had a Gobin Great Shaman on Spidershrine, two level 2 Goblin Shamen, and a savage Orc Shaman to boot.  I was well prepared with potential for spells and pooling, but man oh man did the dice treat me poor for these phases!  Such raw potential reduced to pewtering and spluttering misfire!

I won’t break down a battle report proper here – I don’t think anyone is really interested at any rate, but as my second ever tutorial effort, I had a really good time, and it was a fun loss. In fact, we were pushed for time so we never really finished the game, but I saw which way the wind was blowing, and Ogres are tough hombres.  It took too much concentrated reserves to take out his wonderful Thundertusk model, which inevitably allowed his Bulls to charge my Black Orcs, and his Mournfang Cav to engage with my Boyz.  I was getting pulverised with head-on tactics, so learned very quickly to set up a charge-chain to draw them into a position with some waek Goblin units that I could flank them with my boarboyz and warboss on boar.  This made a serious dent, but the dust was just about to settle on my other poor decisions about the board.  A good teacher and a stern lesson was had here.

What I learned from this game: Wolf Riders are not that great, spiders remain awesome when they’re the charging party, Ogres cannot be allowed to charge EVER, and magic cannot be banked upon, no matter how great the odds are raised.  I need to come up with some sort of masterplan for my army – namely a good list with what I have, or what I might need to get.  Anyhelp with this would be very welcome!  I had a chance to play with a loan of a Mangler Squig which was great fun, if unpredictable.  It ruined my opponent’s cannon before it could fire, and decimated the bulls on the random way back into play-that might be a future purchase, when I can reach on it.  Overall, I was a happy loser, but now need to put some serious ink to paper to find an answer to ogres, if not all armies!

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11 responses to “Painty Lazy Susan and my second ever Warhammer game

  1. That’s an AWESOME paint holder!! Of course, if I made something with slots for 150 paints and didn’t HAVE 150 paints, that’d just give me an excuse to make up the difference…. Hopefully you have more willpower than I. 🙂

  2. So far, unpredictable is right, but in fairness, that’s the general’s fault this time! Regarding the paint holder; using t since would have been easier if it were clear plastic-but that is a step beyond me (and my resources). It would definitely be my 2.0 build though!

  3. Yeap. Gotta agree with what’s already been said. Very inspirational painting rack… considering stealing it…

    Just bought a whole new paint range after giving up GW with their recent changes.

  4. Thanks for the kind words, wazza – Regarding the paints – do you mean that you’re not happy about the line change? I’m still on the fence with the few I’ve tried – the textures don’t work as they’re meant to without extreme waste, but I think there might be another way of using them…other than that, I don’t think I’ll be running out to buy different shades until I need them! Still, it does feel like another way of GW ripping into the ole pocket again! From what I hear, Vallejo are about to raise their prices too…

  5. To be honest, I haven’t even tried one of the new paints. I just can’t get past the frustration of having painted armies with GW paints for so long, only to not be able to purchase them anymore. Don’t get me wrong, I’m definitely not one of the GW haters you see so many of, I’m still a fanboi. I just am taking this opportunity to try a new range. If I’m not satisfied with them, I can always return to GW with my tail between my legs… =D

    I was going to buy Vallejo, the Game Colour case to just replace the entire GW range, but then I spoke to a friendly online store owner who advised against it as he had the ‘suitcase’ and never uses half of it…

    I ended up going with The Army Painter mega paints set… I’m even trying to establish a painting service using their paints and 4 step process…

    • I’ve heard the same over the Game Colour case too-Vallejo seems like a range to cherry pick from, same as Reaper. I can’t fault GW in anything except value for volume content, and I’ve not yet tried the Army painter except for some really handy sprays – if you have painted a few bits send a pic/link of your work! Am always interested in seeing how to improve myself!

      • In terms of not faulting GW, the silly pots not staying open was my other pet peeve… The paints were fine before they dried out…

        I’ve only just received my mega paint set from The Army Painter. This was my response:
        http://wazzashobbies.com/2012/05/14/i-heart-defiant-gaming/
        (pretty excited =)

        And my first model using the paints:
        http://wazzashobbies.com/2012/05/15/cygnar-charger-wip/

        Gotta say, pretty impressed so far. It is pretty much a necessity to purchase one of these though:
        http://www.defiantgaming.com/shop/index.php?_a=product&product_id=1005
        Once you’ve used one though, you’ll wonder how you ever worked without one.

        I have had a bit more experience with the Quickshade, and I gotta say it’s fantastic stuff. Really suits my painting style, I never usually got around to highlighting, so most of my armies are base colours only. They look ok on the tabletop, and they always get good comments whenever I game with them. Probably due to my habit of including a bright colour in almost every scheme I paint. For example, my gamer mates missus nicknamed my Templars the “High-Vis Marines”

        Here’s an example of the Quickshade at work:

        This fella was done really quickly. Only five paints used, and two of those were for the base!!! The Quickshade does all the shading for you. I painted it on, and will probably continue to do so, “dipping” just wastes too much of the precious stuff. It’s like my new Devlan Mud! It does give the gloss effect you might see in the picture, but that’s just fine for alienz… For the rest of the universe, The Army Painter makes a matt varnish that finishes and protects minis. Again, something I haven’t tried yet but I will very soon.

      • Like the ‘nid alright! And your clear appreciation for the Army Painter set! Very nicely done! Tell me about the wet-palette though – I’ve nver used one – what it the advantage to using it over other styles of painting and application? I understand that skill plays a significant role, but is there a learning curve, or is it really just another choice like airbrushing to save time? I’ve always wanted to know, but don’t know anyone about this area that uses this method to ask!

  6. The main thing about a wet palette is that you waste a LOT less paint. It is basically a piece of paper (special paper, not sure what it’s called) that sits on a damp water-logged sponge. The paper stays wet, and the paint on top of the paper does not dry out. I have returned to a paint 24 hours later, and it is still in the condition that it came out of the bottle! It really doesn’t require any great skill, just a bit of practice to get the right water level; enough to keep the paint wet, but not too much or the paint will spread out over time.

    It’s not really about time saving, it’s more about reducing waste. I used to paint from the GW pots straight to my minis, but the wet palette is better because it both keeps the paint fresh, and helps it go on smoother. Great for painting in hot summers down here in Australia… the paints sometimes dried on the brush before you get them to the mini! Not anymore…

    I think the number 1 benefit of the palette is mixing paints, something I don’t really do much of yet (but will need to improve with only 32 paints in my set now). It’s cool because if you have an awesome colour combination that you can’t remember how you made, it lasts long enough to use it all up.

    My two suggestions: If you end up trying one, make sure you cut the paper so that it fits entirely on the sponge, and you wet both sides before use, otherwise any overhanging parts will dry up and the paper will roll or lift from the sponge. You can get a lot of use out of each piece of paper, you can just wash it off in the sink and use it again. I thoroughly recommend the P3 one, haven’t tried any others but I love this one. Wouldn’t go back to painting from a pot now. That and with the dropper style bottles of The Army Painter, I waste a lot less paint by having it dry out.

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